I appreciate the candour and sincerity that you expressed in this post. It’s very moving, in these days when advanced optics have made many shutterbugs arrogant and unconcerned about the welfare of their wild subjects, that a nature photographer writes with such poignancy about the shame of being part of a crowd of ‘spectators’ rather than the exultation of seeing a tiger. Most photographers would have written about this experience with triumph but you introspected in the right spirit. You stand apart. May your tribe increase!

The thoughts and the way you see things is unique to say the least.

I work in Tadoba national park, mah. I see what you described exactly and I bet there are many like us to see the same happen every day and Each and every day, at work and otherwise, in and around the park, I am reminded that tigers really are forgiving and true gentlemen. If only we humans had that generosity to accommodate intruders. Or a thought peeps in, why do these animals allow humans in their places why dont they attack and drive us away. but then again its thinking human like, isn’t it? That’s what got us in the situation that we are in in the first place.

There’s lot to say. your words brought about a storm of thoughts in my mind. But some how I cant put them in words and make sense too. so I will stop.

Thank you for sharing these pieces of art and your words with us

Best regards

Amol

That said, it is a wonderful place and it takes effort to pull away from the mad rush and run a plan. But, I did enjoy the hearing of the calls, the tracking of the pugmarks very much as well.

I agree the fort is a wonderful place. I suggest early morning for the fort. As the day progresses, the heatwaves make image making tough. Also, the cliff is on the west , so by late afternoon, you will be shooting into the sun.

Well now you know what to do the next time, I think I do ..well a little at least

An additional tip would be to visit during June, which is off-season. Of course it\’ll be scorching hot and there will also be a possibility of a few rides being washed out by rain, but it\’s definitely worth all the trouble and risk if you want to avoid the crowds, as the park is relatively empty during that time, which is the off-season. Moreover, thanks to the heat in June, tigers are often found resting near the water, which gives you ample time and opportunities to try out different images and in peace. October or early November (no later than first week) is also a good time to avoid the crowds as well as bag some birds.

1. Reserve a few days (may be 30%) for non-tiger photography – especially vultures from top of the fort.

2. In Bandavgarh probability of seeing a particular tiger at location is very high (unlike other parks in southern India). Some of those locations are beautiful grasslands. Just hang onto one such try your luck. When tiger is in grassland probablility of we disturbing/blocking its way is far less. This is what I did on one of those days and made some images which I liked.

3. For tiger photography, don’t waste time inside the forest even if you sight a tiger. Probability 20 more vehicles landing there is next 5 minutes is quite high.

4. You will see several location with tens of safari vehicles concentrated a waiting at certain locations inside the jungle. Just move on…

5. Ready to write-off lots of your expenses and return empty handed if we decide to concentrate only on tiger.

As Sachin rightly said, wonderful images are possible here if one knows how to make the most of one’s time. Proof for this is the fact that some of the most memorable images of tigers have come from Bandhavgarh, along with Ranthambhore and Kanha. In fact knowing that really creative photography is about creating wonderful images anywhere – even in your garden – one has to be naive to say that Bandhavgarh does not allow different perspectives or beautiful pictures!

But we must rise above pictures here, for a single visit to this magical place is enough to throw one open to the sheer joy of not just seeing tigers, but the whole process of it – tracking by pug-marks or alarm calls, and even waiting for hours in one place without uttering a word, praying that the tiger would choose to pass by your way…it’s all a part of one beautiful game which has to be enjoyed in totality! I can remember even in my sleep every single sighting I’ve ever had – regardless of whether that has led to good pictures or not – and everything that’s led to the tiger’s appearance! How the mud smelled, how the sun shone on the brown grasslands, how the sambhar belled, how the chital fled and how that striped form finally showed up! It’s fair that if your primary objective is photography, you may miss all this but that’s regrettable because it is this that makes the whole experience that much more exciting and ultimately rewarding, as you have a story to tell behind every image! And this is not because I am a bloke obsessed with tigers, but because that’s just how special tigers are! Also, let’s not forget that more than pictures, it’s the animals that suffer from too much intrusion. Wildlife should always come first and pictures second.

I completely agree with Sachin about choosing the right driver and the right guide, and not just that, one must also be assertive when needed to express to the driver/guide in no uncertain terms when you do not wish to be a part of the crowd at a particular place. There is absolutely no compulsion for you to stay there. The whole range of the park is yours, and you have all the freedom to move out of there and try your luck elsewhere, where you’re alone. I can cite numerous instances when this has been done to resounding success, the latest case in point being when Jayanth (Sharma) during his last trip to Bandhavgarh in December shunned the crowd and missed an assured sighting and instead went elsewhere and was rewarded with a beautiful sighting of the Sukhi Patiha female of whom he was the only companion! Similarly, I can never forget how our guide made this http://www.indianaturewatch.net/displayimage.php?id=37301 possible. These are magical moments that will be remembered for life, the quality or the perspective of the pictures notwithstanding. Therefore, it’s important that one enjoys the entire experience rather than be single-mindedly focussed on pictures. Unlike what Shiva has grossly incorrectly imagined, Bandhavgarh is an utterly entrancing place that has an immense lot to offer, if only one knows how to enjoy a jungle and if one has genuine love for tigers. But even otherwise, Bandhavgarh has just so magical that you just can’t be disappointed!

Sriharsha has a fair point, but I must say that it’s unrealistic to expect this change to occur voluntarily alone, in that, not all tourists will be sensible enough to understand the importance of giving animals their space, no matter how much education you attempt to impart. I’ve heard people asking whether they could get off the jeep and ride (!) the tiger, so it’s not as easy as one would imagine to expect these folks to behave. Not just in parks, but if everybody were completely responsible by themselves, laws would not be required in the world! The police would run out of a living and the courts would not exist! Let’s be honest about this. People come there to see tigers, and they will use every available opportunity in whichever way to do that and in a way that’s fair as long as it does not disturb the animal. That is what is of ultimate importance. But you’ve got to crack the whip when you’ve got to crack the whip, and therefore, a combination of individual responsibility and forest department regulations is needed. That is what responsible eco-tourism is all about and that is what I mean when I say that the forest department should tighten up the rules. Of course all of us must do our bits too, but that goes without saying, since it’s understood that being nature photographers, all of us are responsible enough to behave in a sensitive manner while in a tiger reserve.

Saying that I dont deny that its not pleasant to see the tiger at times being not allowed to cross, a behaviour which was restricted only to elephant shows earlier. Hence I said its important to choose the right driver along with other things, who would know what you would like to see and what not. Maybe its my passion towards that place that it hurts to know when ppl dont have a good experience in a place like Bandhavgarh.

Few tips for anybdy who wants to go to bandhavgarh

1. Choose a good driver. How? – recommendations.
Brief the driver before hand that you wldnt want to be part of the crowd if theres more than a dozen vehicle. Ofcourse depending on situations. There are instances when the tiger is at the other side of the stream and you can have 20 vehicles this side and all get to make pictures without harrasing the animal.

2. If possible, read up or try and understand about the terrain of Bandhavgarh and also the family histories. It helps big time to understand which tiger is where. Helps you choose and decide incase you want to move out from a crowded place. You may not necessarily find a place where there wouldnt be many vehicles, but if you are lucky, you can have sightings of tigers for yourselves too.

3. If you are planning to park yourself to wait for a tiger, like you did in this case. Fix up a place (here you need a good driver who understands the place and the rest is your luck) and then not plan to move from that place irresepctive where the tiger comes from. Once you guide your driver that if you are lucky you would make images from where you are, if not and the tiger whishes to move at the other direction its your luck again.

4. Plan atleast 8+ rides. It helps understand the situation, movement of tigers and thus improve the sightings.

5. Raise your opinion/voice. If you dont want your vechile to be part of a crowd then do clearly tell your driver about it. If you cant stop the other drivers to stop the tiger/s from crossing the road or any such activity, atleast you can decide to be NOT part of it.

As said earlier, Bandhavgarh is a magical place. Pls give it a chance to prove itself to you

You can make great tiger images at this place without actually going through much of what you did in that one ride.

Good luck to all

regards
Sachin