Park gate opened at 3:15pm. My safari vehicle driver and the guide might have decided on the strategy to show me a tiger. My vehicle driver started zooming very fast inside the park and I had tough time to balance my 600mmf4 lens mounted on a tripod. He was taking particular path inside the park and not even looking left and right – this is not the kind of ride I got used to in our jungles. Typically we move slowly and see what nature has to offer to make some images. But here it appeared as if the driver had an appointment with the tiger at a particular spot!
We reached that mystery spot around 3:35pm. The place appeared completely dry – a rocky region without trees. I could not believe presence of any prey population in that region. I asked my driver as to why we stopped there. He showed me a cave about 50 feet below and said there may be a tiger resting there which may come out in the evening – and it was not the first ride where I had such promises. I don’t blame him however – it is a wild jungle, not a zoo. We can’t predict where these gentlemen (tigers) are in the wild. He said the strategy for the evening was to wait there till end of that evening. I reluctantly agreed (and was ready to write-off one more day and related expenses).
Soon after another safari vehicle came by and my driver promptly told them there could a tiger hiding there. They started waiting too. In next one hour about fifteen more safari vehicles circled that spot hoping to see a tiger there. Having wasted an hour there I could not control my self and asked my driver what is the guarantee that the tiger is hiding there. The reply was as expected – “there is no guarantee”. I appreciated his honest reply however. Only consolation was I was not the only stupid waiting there – there were 15 more vehicles and about 50+ tourists waiting there!
Sun was fast going down the hills. I was mostly sure of the (another) wasted evening. Light turned golden yellow and I was dreaming of casting some golden stripes on my camera’s sensor. I don’t wanted a ride inside the jungle without a single image. So I tried making some image of an egyptian vulture flying far off in the beautiful golden light.
Sun was going further down the hill on the west. A few minutes of light was left and I zoomed out and in my wide angle lenses to see any interesting perspective that would show up through the view finder. Thanks to the big party there and noise around my brain refused to work. I decided to make some productive use of the time by counting safari vehicles gathered there! Counted 27 vehicles and a few more were still arriving.
Last rays of sun were getting diffracted off mountain edges. Suddenly a few safari vehicles moved and a few shouted tiger tiger ! I was on the other side of the semi circle of vehicles. My driver suddenly moved the vehicle too. Thank God my 600mmf4 did not topple. Next few seconds of frantic movement – my driver was negotiating a complex path between scores of vehicles assembled there. While moving down I saw a huge beautiful striped gentle man moving. The very last golden rays were still getting reflected off those stripes. Sad, I was not in a position to make an image since the vehicle was moving. There was a total chaos, vehicles moving and obstructing views, several people shouting, drivers yelling at other drivers. By then tiger decided to sit down amidst a grass region since its path was blocked. My driver got back to our original spot where we were standing hoping to have a better view. All I could see was the beautiful head of the tiger. By then sun went below the distant mountain. My camera started showing shutter speeds less than 1/60sec. Good I was armed with my D700 and did not hesitate to push to ISO to 3200.
The clock ticked away and was getting closer to 6pm. It takes about 20 minutes drive to reach the gate. Park authorities levy heavy fine if any safari vehicles gets delayed beyond 6:15pm. I was not sure whether the tiger will get up. Sure it did !!
It got up, went below the small valley and climbed up only to see about 30 vehicles blocking its path. It spared a second looking at all the vehicles, decided its narrow path amidst vehicles which are only a few feet way.
The way it gently went in between vehicles as if there were none is still in my memory. All of a sudden we became so silly and mean amidst this gentleman of Bandavgarh. We had no business to interfere in its life the way we did – still it tolerated a behaved like a true gentleman. I felt the title of the Mr Vivek Sinha’s book “The Tiger is a Gentleman” is so well justified. It exhibited far more civilized behaviour than we humans assembled there to have a glimpse of it.
The gentleman negotiated its way into the woods. All the vehicles started zooming towards the main gate. I sat down thinking about last few minutes and the lesson gentleman has taught us on that shameful evening. When I reached the gate I had a nice mud bath – thanks to speeding vehicles and rising dust from the roads of the jungles.
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To the gentleman of the Bandhavgarh,
Wish I could some how convey this to you. My sincere apologies for being part of the crowd that evening.
I am very sorry,
- Ganesh H Shankar.
Some of the images made at Bandhavgarh National Park are here.
It’s extremely thoughtful of you to apologise to the tiger for the intrusion, Ganesh. Most of us take the jungle and its inhabitants for granted without remembering for a moment that we are, after all, intruders to their domain even if we’re there for photography. This is especially true for tigers since they’re such private and secretive animals and don’t like their peace ruined by the presence of humans.
As for Bandhavgarh, it is indeed an utterly enchanting place – a totally magical reserve where history, myth and the sublime best of natural history come together to create an intoxicating atmosphere, but what is being done to such a pristine wilderness by the tourism frenzy is truly appalling. Strict regulations have been pressed into action in other reserves like Ranthambhore and that has resulted in human pressure due to tourism being eased to a great extent, and it’s really high time they implemented a similar restriction on the number of vehicles allowed into the park at a time in Bandhavgarh as well. Short-term economic gains resulting from the influx of tourists must be made secondary to the privacy and peace of the animals, and there should be no compromise with that. Sadly the harrowing reality of the world we inhabit is that mindless “development” has so completely overtaken us that wildlife has to earn for itself to be saved, and tragically, without these tourists, the incentive to save the tiger, especially for the locals who may run out of a living, may be lost. Therein lies the tiger’s predicament. And ours.
Fortunately old warhorses like B2 are totally accustomed to this frenetic activity and seem not to mind it, or at least they tolerate it with minimal fuss and drama, and like you’ve rightly pointed out, have proven to be much more gentlemanly than us. Cats are indeed the ultimate sweethearts!
It is, however, sad to know about the driver’s single-mindedness about showing you a tiger and nothing else. This is precisely what I was concerned about and had warned you against before the trip. Anyway, I hope the rest of the rides were different.
I really liked the pictures, particularly the red-headed vulture with the bone in its beak, which is outstanding! The brown fish-owl image is an absolutely mind-blowing perspective! Clearly one of the best to come from Bandhavgarh despite so many images being made of these chaps there.
But the icing on the cake is obviously the B2 picture (the one in colour). He is absolutely unbeatable for sheer presence and his inescapable magnetism is clearly visible in the image. B2 is everything a male tiger represents – enormous size, large soft paws at the end of fat stubby legs, long cheek hair, a cavernous torso, a long, serious face and most importantly, perfect gentlemanly conduct as you’ve very rightly observed. He’s the king not only of his domain but of the hearts of all who’ve seen him and felt his magic. It’s very heartening to see that he’s going strong despite his age and challenges from other younger males.
Thanks for bringing Bandhavgarh to our desktops. I will eagerly look forward to the next post!
Comment by Santosh Saligram — March 29, 2009 @ 2:08 pm
Ganesh,
One can really understand the emotions that is going through your mind when you made this post. Though I was never a part of the Central Indian Tiger Pilgrimage – i have come across enough stories and photographic evidences to prove this. Places like these are def meant for the people who need to tick off Tiger from much watch species in life and not for the photography enthusiast mortals like us who wants to see tiger with a different perspective. Though comparitively Ranthambore is a much better place offering only 4 gypsy and 4 canters per zone – i too feel its a bit too much when all 8 vehicles are racing against each other in rough terrains risking everything that they can.
Myself, Pramod and Ashwin too had a tough experience during our last trip to Ranthambore where the driver was desp to rush across and make sure we get to make images of the tiger with a 30-45 sec appointment that we had with the gentleman.
That said i seriously dont see any compromise that you have made with respect to the images from Bandhavgadh. The tiger in grass, readheaded vulture and owl images are just too good for words and has the “Ganesh’s Image” signature all across it.
I think a similar length trip to Ranthambore in summer can def make your dream tiger images come true.
-Shiv
Comment by Shivakumar L Narayan — March 29, 2009 @ 4:36 pm
What an amazing cat!
This is a really great post and your work is very professional.
I like seeing the cat in B&W and color.
It makes it really stand out…
Comment by ForestWander Nature Pictures — March 30, 2009 @ 3:34 am
Ganesh, I am aware of the feelings that run through your heart on occasions like this. I saw my first non caged tiger in Bandhavgarh and its a special moment and place for me. But still that dosent make me appreciate the rules of the park any more. Its a beautiful place with wonderful denizens. But I dont think that the majority of the crowd goes there for that. They have just one thing on their minds and thats the tiger. Unfortunately its the popularity of the tiger itself which has resulted in this sad state of affairs. I see just one solution to this madness which can rid Bandhavgarh of its notorious tiger mania, and thats by every tourist consciously telling the drivers, that you are not behind Tigers. If we all start our safaris by setting the expectation right, and telling the driver to follow the trail of the nature rather than following the trail of tigers, most of this problem will be solved. If you happen to come across a tiger thats brilliant! nothing like it!! But no chasing tigers and jostling and cursing for prime photo spot, please!
We as individuals have the biggest responsibility here, as I am sure the forest department has and will keep a blind eye on issues like this. So its up to us to make this change. Thats the beauty of Democracy, and voicing our opinions. We are a billion strong and if everybody starts thinking straight, lot of our issues would be a thing of the past. The only part missing here is willingness and awareness. Theres not much we can do on the willingness part, but atleast we can spread messages like this around the world hoping that peoples willingness to be a part of this change can be motivated by creating the right awareness. I believe Humans are not all that bad, so if we educate them I am sure they will see the difference. And you have done a very good job sir, by bringing forth this issue in a very strong manner.
And I Thank you for that.
Please excuse me for this rather long comment. But I felt I had to voice out my points on this issue
Comment by Sriharsha Ganjam — March 30, 2009 @ 7:51 am
That is so typical of Bandhavgarh. I genuinely understand your feelings/emotions as I myself have gone thru this in the past. But I also strongly feel that Bandhavgarh is a place of opportunities than the rest of the tiger countries. Ensuring some basic stuff like choosing the right Driver to knowing the terrain, park, tiger movement areas of the park helps a BIG way. I have been visiting this park since 2001. Forest Department has brought in stricter rules with a maximum of 40 vehicles per route, introduced more entry gates etc etc.
Saying that I dont deny that its not pleasant to see the tiger at times being not allowed to cross, a behaviour which was restricted only to elephant shows earlier. Hence I said its important to choose the right driver along with other things, who would know what you would like to see and what not. Maybe its my passion towards that place that it hurts to know when ppl dont have a good experience in a place like Bandhavgarh.
Few tips for anybdy who wants to go to bandhavgarh
1. Choose a good driver. How? – recommendations.
Brief the driver before hand that you wldnt want to be part of the crowd if theres more than a dozen vehicle. Ofcourse depending on situations. There are instances when the tiger is at the other side of the stream and you can have 20 vehicles this side and all get to make pictures without harrasing the animal.
2. If possible, read up or try and understand about the terrain of Bandhavgarh and also the family histories. It helps big time to understand which tiger is where. Helps you choose and decide incase you want to move out from a crowded place. You may not necessarily find a place where there wouldnt be many vehicles, but if you are lucky, you can have sightings of tigers for yourselves too.
3. If you are planning to park yourself to wait for a tiger, like you did in this case. Fix up a place (here you need a good driver who understands the place and the rest is your luck) and then not plan to move from that place irresepctive where the tiger comes from. Once you guide your driver that if you are lucky you would make images from where you are, if not and the tiger whishes to move at the other direction its your luck again.
4. Plan atleast 8+ rides. It helps understand the situation, movement of tigers and thus improve the sightings.
5. Raise your opinion/voice. If you dont want your vechile to be part of a crowd then do clearly tell your driver about it. If you cant stop the other drivers to stop the tiger/s from crossing the road or any such activity, atleast you can decide to be NOT part of it.
As said earlier, Bandhavgarh is a magical place. Pls give it a chance to prove itself to you
You can make great tiger images at this place without actually going through much of what you did in that one ride.
Good luck to all
regards
Sachin
Comment by Sachin — March 30, 2009 @ 8:07 am
I think Sachin’s put it very well and concisely. I felt that I should respond to Shivakumar’s comment since I thought that his perception of Bandhavgarh as a place visited by people who want to “tick the tiger off the must-watch list and not by genuine photographers” is very unfair and misleading and smacks of ignorance. I find it surprising that he said this despite never visiting Bandhavgarh!
As Sachin rightly said, wonderful images are possible here if one knows how to make the most of one’s time. Proof for this is the fact that some of the most memorable images of tigers have come from Bandhavgarh, along with Ranthambhore and Kanha. In fact knowing that really creative photography is about creating wonderful images anywhere – even in your garden – one has to be naive to say that Bandhavgarh does not allow different perspectives or beautiful pictures!
But we must rise above pictures here, for a single visit to this magical place is enough to throw one open to the sheer joy of not just seeing tigers, but the whole process of it – tracking by pug-marks or alarm calls, and even waiting for hours in one place without uttering a word, praying that the tiger would choose to pass by your way…it’s all a part of one beautiful game which has to be enjoyed in totality! I can remember even in my sleep every single sighting I’ve ever had – regardless of whether that has led to good pictures or not – and everything that’s led to the tiger’s appearance! How the mud smelled, how the sun shone on the brown grasslands, how the sambhar belled, how the chital fled and how that striped form finally showed up! It’s fair that if your primary objective is photography, you may miss all this but that’s regrettable because it is this that makes the whole experience that much more exciting and ultimately rewarding, as you have a story to tell behind every image! And this is not because I am a bloke obsessed with tigers, but because that’s just how special tigers are! Also, let’s not forget that more than pictures, it’s the animals that suffer from too much intrusion. Wildlife should always come first and pictures second.
I completely agree with Sachin about choosing the right driver and the right guide, and not just that, one must also be assertive when needed to express to the driver/guide in no uncertain terms when you do not wish to be a part of the crowd at a particular place. There is absolutely no compulsion for you to stay there. The whole range of the park is yours, and you have all the freedom to move out of there and try your luck elsewhere, where you’re alone. I can cite numerous instances when this has been done to resounding success, the latest case in point being when Jayanth (Sharma) during his last trip to Bandhavgarh in December shunned the crowd and missed an assured sighting and instead went elsewhere and was rewarded with a beautiful sighting of the Sukhi Patiha female of whom he was the only companion! Similarly, I can never forget how our guide made this http://www.indianaturewatch.net/displayimage.php?id=37301 possible. These are magical moments that will be remembered for life, the quality or the perspective of the pictures notwithstanding. Therefore, it’s important that one enjoys the entire experience rather than be single-mindedly focussed on pictures. Unlike what Shiva has grossly incorrectly imagined, Bandhavgarh is an utterly entrancing place that has an immense lot to offer, if only one knows how to enjoy a jungle and if one has genuine love for tigers. But even otherwise, Bandhavgarh has just so magical that you just can’t be disappointed!
Sriharsha has a fair point, but I must say that it’s unrealistic to expect this change to occur voluntarily alone, in that, not all tourists will be sensible enough to understand the importance of giving animals their space, no matter how much education you attempt to impart. I’ve heard people asking whether they could get off the jeep and ride (!) the tiger, so it’s not as easy as one would imagine to expect these folks to behave. Not just in parks, but if everybody were completely responsible by themselves, laws would not be required in the world! The police would run out of a living and the courts would not exist! Let’s be honest about this. People come there to see tigers, and they will use every available opportunity in whichever way to do that and in a way that’s fair as long as it does not disturb the animal. That is what is of ultimate importance. But you’ve got to crack the whip when you’ve got to crack the whip, and therefore, a combination of individual responsibility and forest department regulations is needed. That is what responsible eco-tourism is all about and that is what I mean when I say that the forest department should tighten up the rules. Of course all of us must do our bits too, but that goes without saying, since it’s understood that being nature photographers, all of us are responsible enough to behave in a sensitive manner while in a tiger reserve.
Comment by Santosh Saligram — March 30, 2009 @ 9:32 am
After this first visit I am better prepared if I visit this park again. My driver was not at all bad – in fact he was quite intelligent. I blame myself for not being able to foresee the block and chaos. This being my first visit I left everything to my guide and driver. If I visit this beautiful place again, this is what I hope do to meet my style of photography –
1. Reserve a few days (may be 30%) for non-tiger photography – especially vultures from top of the fort.
2. In Bandavgarh probability of seeing a particular tiger at location is very high (unlike other parks in southern India). Some of those locations are beautiful grasslands. Just hang onto one such try your luck. When tiger is in grassland probablility of we disturbing/blocking its way is far less. This is what I did on one of those days and made some images which I liked.
3. For tiger photography, don’t waste time inside the forest even if you sight a tiger. Probability 20 more vehicles landing there is next 5 minutes is quite high.
4. You will see several location with tens of safari vehicles concentrated a waiting at certain locations inside the jungle. Just move on…
5. Ready to write-off lots of your expenses and return empty handed if we decide to concentrate only on tiger.
Comment by Ganesh H Shankar — March 30, 2009 @ 9:57 am
Completely agree with you, Ganesh. It\’s difficult to get it all right during your very first visit. I\’m sure you\’ll be better placed to make strategies at the next visit. Given that you personally like to be alone in peace when making images and avoid crowds, all the above points are pertinent and as you\’ve rightly said in point 5, concentrating only on tigers can lead to disappointment since being wild, there is no guarantee that they will give you the kind of sightings you are looking for.
An additional tip would be to visit during June, which is off-season. Of course it\’ll be scorching hot and there will also be a possibility of a few rides being washed out by rain, but it\’s definitely worth all the trouble and risk if you want to avoid the crowds, as the park is relatively empty during that time, which is the off-season. Moreover, thanks to the heat in June, tigers are often found resting near the water, which gives you ample time and opportunities to try out different images and in peace. October or early November (no later than first week) is also a good time to avoid the crowds as well as bag some birds.
Comment by Santosh Saligram — March 30, 2009 @ 11:52 am
Ganesh , I understand what you went through. I had a similar experience at Bandhavgarh in November last ( http://www.krishphoto.com/trip-reports/chasing-striped-cuties-bandhavgarh-national-park.html ) . Of the three cubs one was cut away from its mum because of the vehicles. However, the driver was intelligent and went way ahead of the crowd and we waited. Sure enough the family crossed right in front of us and there were just two jeeps here.
That said, it is a wonderful place and it takes effort to pull away from the mad rush and run a plan. But, I did enjoy the hearing of the calls, the tracking of the pugmarks very much as well.
I agree the fort is a wonderful place. I suggest early morning for the fort. As the day progresses, the heatwaves make image making tough. Also, the cliff is on the west , so by late afternoon, you will be shooting into the sun.
Well now you know what to do the next time, I think I do ..well a little at least
Comment by Krishnan V — April 2, 2009 @ 3:01 pm
Comment by Pramod Viswanath — April 8, 2009 @ 2:42 am
Ganesh, I am having a hard time deciding whether you are a better write or a better photographer/artist.
The thoughts and the way you see things is unique to say the least.
I work in Tadoba national park, mah. I see what you described exactly and I bet there are many like us to see the same happen every day and Each and every day, at work and otherwise, in and around the park, I am reminded that tigers really are forgiving and true gentlemen. If only we humans had that generosity to accommodate intruders. Or a thought peeps in, why do these animals allow humans in their places why dont they attack and drive us away. but then again its thinking human like, isn’t it? That’s what got us in the situation that we are in in the first place.
There’s lot to say. your words brought about a storm of thoughts in my mind. But some how I cant put them in words and make sense too. so I will stop.
Thank you for sharing these pieces of art and your words with us
Best regards
Amol
Comment by Amol Khedgikar — April 24, 2009 @ 12:32 pm
Dear Mr Shankar,
I appreciate the candour and sincerity that you expressed in this post. It’s very moving, in these days when advanced optics have made many shutterbugs arrogant and unconcerned about the welfare of their wild subjects, that a nature photographer writes with such poignancy about the shame of being part of a crowd of ’spectators’ rather than the exultation of seeing a tiger. Most photographers would have written about this experience with triumph but you introspected in the right spirit. You stand apart. May your tribe increase!
Comment by Bijoy — March 6, 2010 @ 6:41 am